The popular North Shore hangout has a fascinating history
Salem, Mass. – Once a quarantine site for yellow fever patients, Salem Willows Park has transformed into one of Salem’s most popular destinations, complete with an arcade, boardwalk, and family-owned eateries. But behind its lively atmosphere lies a history of isolation and disease.
Long before it became a public park, the area served as a hospital for infectious diseases. According to historian Jim McAllister, it was originally known as “Hospital Point.”
“The original hospital, referred to as a ‘pest house,’ was established in 1747 for people with infectious diseases such as smallpox and yellow fever,” said McAllister. As a member of the Salem Historical Society, he has access to numerous historical artifacts related to the Willows. “They called it a pest house because you were considered a ‘pest’.”
The hospital’s location changed multiple times. Initially situated at Roaches Point, it was later moved to what is now Salem Willows in 1799. After burning down in 1846, the facility was relocated back to its original site. This third iteration of the hospital functioned as a chronic disease hospital until the late 1970s.
The iconic willow trees, planted as early as 1801, have ties to the site’s medical past.
“The historic willows were in fact planted by the owner of this hospital to provide shade for convalescing patients, who were required to take daily walks,” said Pamela Hartford, the city’s landscape and preservation specialist.
During the 1800s, the Willows area was isolated to prevent disease spread. Because it was closed to the public, locals used the nearby beach as a dumping ground for dead animals, earning it the name Dead Horse Beach.
Twelve years after the hospital burned down, the area was declared a public park in 1858. In the 1860s, trolley companies started offering rides from downtown Salem to the Willows, boosting its popularity. By 1880, a railway company commercialized the area, adding a shooting gallery, an arcade, seafood shacks, and a bowling alley.
Salem is a city full of secrets and allure. While best known for its ties to the Witch Trials of the 1690s, the city also boasts scenic parks beyond its Halloween-centric tourism. One such park is Salem Willows, nestled in the neck of Salem, at 165 Fort Ave, in an area where early Puritan settlers first arrived with John Winthrop in 1630.
Today, Salem Willows is a picturesque recreational space making it the perfect summer destination. However, its history is far more complex.
McAllister, co-author of “Salem: Cornerstones of a Historic City” and “Salem: From Naumkeag to Witch City” and owner of Derby Square Tours is one of the foremost experts on Salem Willows. Along with Hartford, McAllister has extensively researched the park’s evolution.
One of the most famous additions was Hobbs Popcorn, which opened in 1896. Still operated by the Hobbs family, it remains one of the park’s longest running businesses.
Over the years, the Willows became home to unique attractions.
“There was a huge, funny-looking building,” said McAllister. “The first floor had roller skating, the second floor was a restaurant, and they had a camera obscura.”
The park also featured steamboat rides to Baker’s Island, a water ride called Shoot-the-Chute, and a theater that hosted operas, musical performances, and daredevil stunts.
The park then introduced a Tilt-a-Whirl, the world’s smallest roller coaster, and even helicopter rides, though high insurance costs led to their removal. One of its most unusual attractions was a donkey-powered carousel.
“You paid your nickel, and if the donkey was in a good mood, you got a good ride. If he wasn’t, you didn’t,” said McAllister, citing a story from Charlie Hobbs of Hobbs Popcorn.
In 1912, the beloved eatery Salem Lowe opened, famous for its chop suey sandwiches. This establishment closed in August of 2022 following owner David Yee’s retirement. It reopened again the next year under new management, then closed for good in 2024.
“People were devastated.” Said McAllister. “Someone even did a master’s thesis on the origins of the chop suey sandwich, and had to break it to Salem that [the sandwich] wasn’t invented here.”
Another lesser-known fact about the Willows is its connection to peanut sales. A blind vendor named “Blind Pat Keneally” was among the first in the country to sell peanuts in the shell. His business was eventually bought by Hobbs Popcorn.
The Willows also plays a significant role in Salem’s music scene. In the early 1900s, it hosted big bands and jazz musicians. In 1920, the Shridman brothers opened a dance venue that brought in big name artists like Duke Ellington and Glenn Miller. Today the Salem Jazz Festival continues the musical tradition at the same site.
Now a bustling summer destination, Salem Willows attracts families to its arcade, amusement rides, and seafood restaurants. Its transformation from an isolated quarantine site to a community hub is a testament to change and renewal—a reminder to residents and tourists alike that even a spot with a bleak background can blossom into something beautiful.
This story was produced for the Massachusetts News Service of Endicott College in partnership with Boston Institute for Nonprofit Journalism.
